I’m looking at getting a bicycle to aid in getting around town. Part of me wants a cargo bike, but those cost as much as a car, even used. I will admit I’m even looking at an e-bike so I can cover a fair bit of territory at need.
Does anyone have any suggestions? I know things have changed a bit since the days of my much-missed Raleigh Record, but need something sturdy, probably larger tires given the road and other conditions around here, and that I might can mount saddlebags and a back deck onto. Given some of the drivers around here, defensive auto-cannons might not be a bad option.
Found one place not far away that lets you rent bikes to try on nearby trails before purchasing. Seems like a good idea for me to try a couple and be sure the vertigo and other delights don’t preclude me from riding a bike after the lightning strike.
Any constructive thoughts and suggestions are most welcome. I know little these days about brands of regular or other bikes. Have found some places that sell used, plan to check them out too once I do some investigating and trials.
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You might want to look at three wheeled bikes. They even come with baskets. They are a bit pricey, but if you want to make sure of stability, this could be an option.
I may have to, but am trying to stay two wheeled so I can take it on the bus. All our busses have either front racks for bikes, or internal racks on some lines. We will soon see, have found a couple of places that either rent or will let me try to ride around the store area.
A 3 wheeled recumbent would probably be great but pricey. Otherwise it seems like all the cool kids (and geezers too) are into E-bikes, some of which have pretty impressive performance, as well as being easier on people with respiratory problems.
Do a lot of research, and talk to some people if you can.
Thank you! I am planning on LOTS of research, and not rushing in.
We bought my daughter an E-Bike to get to school and work. I think the brand was Aventon.
It was a pretty good purchase, it can with a rack and a front headlight, and has a top speed (if you set it to “class 3” mode) of almost 30 mph. She keeps it in “class 2” mode, which basically makes it a 20mph top speed motorcycle.
Get some cheap water proof panniers, and a hard case for the rear rack, and you’ve got a cheap, pretty reliable way of getting around. I bought her some of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BD8NWS4X to keep her hands warm in the cold. She’s a bit of a wimp, so won’t ride much below freezing, and complains about the “cold” even when it’s in the 40s.
The one thing I’d suggest–that we didn’t really do–is to find a shop that’s open “real” hours, not Wed. through Sun.
Thanks for the food for thought! Will check out that brand here soon.
Think body then bike. How many hills (leg strength)? Potholes (mechanical shock)? Gravel (balance & recovery)? Do you need to keep your back straight (beach cruiser)? Leaning back (tri-wheeler)? Recommend fat tires for better traction (braking, anti-skid) and load distribution.
Just sayin, Bruce
Thanks! A conventional old-school bike may be out. Tried to get on a classic Cannondale the other day and it did not go well. Step through design may be best. The idea of fat tries strikes me as a very good one, don’t see the thin tires working well in the potholes that serve as Indianapolis streets. Seriously, streets in Baghdad that had been mined and shelled were in better shape than most around here. Going to rent a couple of prospects here soon, and they will check me out in-store before letting me out. I did find an e-bike with a sidecar(!!) that if it weren’t so expensive would be worth having just because. 🙂 Always wanted a motorcycle with a side car…
I’m 74, and still ride only because I found a great bike and the power of electricity. I got to the stage where it was uncomfortable to dismount, even with today’s frame geometry. The bike that kept me in the saddle was a “Day 6”, advertised as a “semi-recumbent” bike. It has a wide saddle, a back rest, great step-through height, and when you stop you can put both feet flat on the ground. I converted my bike to an e-bike with a kit from Bafang. Take a gander and see what you think. Here’s a link to the website: https://day6bikes.com
I will be checking that out! Thank you so much for sharing that!!
Mountain bike gearing makes hills (slightly) smaller.
Mountain bike and Hybrid riding position – sitting upright – increases visibility and comfort byt adds wind
resistance.
29 inch wheels are the fashion but 26 inch wheels lower the center of gravity enough to be useful
A frame size one size smaller than recommended makes getting on and off easier.
Knobby off-road tires can be replaced with same-size street treaded ones.
Avoid rat-trap pedals (common on “hybrids” (half mountain bike, half road bike)and pure road bikes
Before buying look at available accessories:
rear luggage rack
maybe rear panniers (check for pedalling clearance)
extra water bottle cage(s)
under-seat tool bags (spare tubes and a set of spoons can be very handy as can an Alien Tool, and can
save many a long walk home)
cost and availability of “maintenance parts & labor” *
Test the derailleur shifter (both) for ease of use, especially the cassette shifter. You’ll shift a lot initially until
leg strength grows enough.
Carry a Boo-Boo kit for the occasional scraped knees/elbows. Padded fingerless riding gloves can improve comfort and help protect hands in case of a spill.
Glasses to keep bugs. etc. out of eyes are a must.
Comfort – ask if the traditional Mtn bike seat can be swapped for one a little wider. Test it for comfort (you will still need to “toughen up” parts of your anatomy, though)
Lighting – at some point you will be out in dim – or no – light. Particular attentio to bright rear lights. VERY
bright, and two with one steady and one flashing is not overkill. FYI, it’s easy to carry (or buy) spare
batteries, but rcharging “on the road” not so much.
Mirror – I’ve found the insert-into-handlebar-end ones are most convenient; buy spares, you will break a couple.
Are you a motorcycle rider? Have the brake handle cables reversed (bicycle =RH for rear brake, motorcycle RH=front wheel brake). Old habits die hard and should also be respected.
Buy a good lock – Kryptonite steel U-shaped are very good, a 7 ft plastic coated steel cable is handy – loop through both wheels and the U-lock to prevent wheels from being stolen.
A fanny pack or SMALL backpack can be handy – maps, energy bars, light rain jacket, etc.
* Chains are a wear item, keep them clean and lubed, replace every 5K miles, rear cassette every 10-12K. How many shops can work on that brand? How convenient are they? Have your wheels trued with each chain replacement and as part of each tire replacement (OEM tires will last ~6-8K miles, look at Armadillo tires (made only by Specialized) for the first replacement – kevlar under layer reduces punctures a LOT, slightly harder tread rubber reduces corning grip some, but also makes Armadillos last longer (~10+K))..
Good luck.
Iggy