Preparedness Pays — Again

I mentioned the other day that the power had gone out at my apartment. There was an accident that took out power to a chunk of the neighborhood, so I ended up eating out both breakfast and dinner. What I cooked last night was the meal originally intended, which takes about five hours to slow cook.

Now, it was a pain in that I had not yet raised the rolling shutters when the power went out, so no way to raise them to get some light. Thankfully, I had both a penlight and a taclight with me, so had no problem navigating this basement apartment. I decided when I went out to run errands that afternoon to get some candles, which wasn’t quite as quick and easy as I had hoped. I ended up buying some expensive tourist things, but now have three candles just in case. Of course, by the time I got back with them, the power was back on.

Always have multiple means of generating light, even when on travel. I almost forgot about the head lamp I had gotten for Mount Athos, and do need to note that the red lamp function allowed me to get up, dressed, and ready at 0300 one morning without disturbing anyone else. The only thing I would do different would be to get candles at the start. Need to put that on the long-term travel checklist.

Always have a means of making light, and remember that preparedness always pays.

If you would like to help me with this trip, seminary courses, and more, feel free to hit the fundraiser at A New Life on GiveSendGo, use the options in the Tip Jar in the upper right, or drop me a line to discuss other methods. I’ve added Cash App ($CliffPow7) and Venmo (@Clifford-Powers-5). There is also the Amazon Wish List in the Bard’s Jar. Getting hit by lightning is not fun! It is thanks to your gifts and prayers that I am still going. Thank you.

Pilgrimage: Icons Pt. 1

Outside of the deliberate misrepresentation that traditional faiths worship saints, the largest misconception about traditional faith is that we worship icons. And, yes, I do consider it a deliberate and willful misrepresentation of truth, faith, and more. It is a heresy and the last gasp of iconoclasm in the service of the evil one. Too strong for you? Hang on, I will do my best to explain a book’s worth of theology in a single blog post. Can’t be done, but I will at least give you some broad strokes and the grounds for future discussions and explorations.

Fact is, icons have been a part of Christianity. From. The. Start. Just like the veneration of relics, a topic for another day (or year as that too is multiple books). Part comes from the fact that early Christianity (up until well past middle age even) (well, what did you expect, I am a PUNdit after all) was an oral tradition, not a written. As I have discussed before, the early Church (and even unto the 1700s) was based on oral tradition and not literary/written.

Per some previous discussions, go read Matthew, and then read Luke. Two things jump out. First, Matthew was written for an oral tradition including things done to enhance memorization. Luke, in addition to clearly having talked with the Theotokos (Mary, the mother of God), was a literate man who wrote a literary work. It clearly reads as such, and he was one of the few if not the only Apostle who was literate in that he could both read and write. Look at the Epistles and note that in many cases they list who wrote down the words and that they would be sent WITH THE LETTER to verify and explain as needed.

The other thing a lot of other people don’t know or don’t get is that Luke was one of the first (if not the first) iconographers. In fact, of the several with which he is credited, at least four are believed to survive to this day. One of those icons is said to have been painted upon wood from the table where the Holy Family ate. Yes, he is credited with taking the supper table of Christ as a youth and using the wood from it for an icon.

There is a lot that could be said about the seventy or so icons he is said to have created. However, I will simply note that one of the most famous, The Directress, has spawned thousands of copies. It simply depicts Christ the babe in the lap of Mary, with her pointing at him with emphasis indicating HE is the way, the truth and the light. That was the role the Theotokos chose in life, to point to him, to guide people to him. In many respects, it is still her role.

I will again point out an interesting thing I noted a while back. Of the icons attributed to Luke, the Theotokos is almost identical in each, while the figure of Christ can change rather dramatically. To me, it strongly indicates that he did indeed meet and talk with the Theotokos, and that — per scripture — he never met Christ in the flesh. Think about that for a bit, and consider that his icons were accepted not only by the Theotokos, but the fathers of the Church as well. Do you really think that if they were a blasphemy or wrong that no one would have spoken out? Just a thought to consider.

Let’s set aside such things for a moment, and discuss: what is an icon? In the broadest strokes, an icon is a depiction of a person that captures the totality of their work or life and provides a means of two-way communication between the person venerating and the person or persons depicted within the icon. Icons have been described as “windows into Heaven” in that the person or persons being depicted are the only people we know for sure are in Heaven, and the icon offers a path for mutual communication with them.

Now, I’m not saying that the icon comes to life and actually talks with you. It has happened, and I just had the chance to venerate one such icon while in Greece. That icon of the Theotokos (the Virgin Mary) spoke three times to the nuns of a monastery warning them to take everything they could and flee. The third time it spoke they listened, gathered up what they could, and fled. A few hours later a guerilla force sacked the monastery.

Yet another was at the Vatopedi monastery on Mount Athos, and I also had the chance to venerate, study, and pray before it. That icon spoke to warn the abbot not to open the gate one day, as pirates lay in wait for them to do so, so they could sack the monastery. In fact, that icon did in effect come to life, with the infant Jesus trying to stop her from talking, saying the monks deserved what was to come because they were not honoring their vows. She pulled down his hand and repeated the warning, which was heeded. Turns out, when they cautiously checked, the pirates were seen and had large rocks dropped on them, and surprisingly they ran away rather than pressing the sack as was normal. In the aftermath, the icon returned to something close to its original form, save that the infant Jesus’s hand was still in the process of being pulled down and he has a rather angry look on his face. The original fresco was very carefully removed and preserved with those changes; and, a new fresco was put up restoring the happy smiling infant Jesus with his hands where they were originally. The miracle icon is now in a special chapel above the main church, and I found it to be incredibly powerful.

This also brings up the matter of materials. The fact is, there is no limit. Many are painted (written) on wood. Others are done with mosaics, while yet others are done as plaster frescoes. Some more modern ones are copies printed and mounted on wood. I’m looking at one right now that is technically a photograph, but is accepted as an icon. We just had a very interesting discussion in the recent theology class that even something done by AI using prompts from an iconographer who did the prayers and other preparations could be an icon.

Again, the materials don’t matter. According to the seventh ecumenical council (which ended iconoclasm), what matters is: it has to depict a person and not an object; it has to be historical, and not of a dream, legend, etc.; it has to show the totality of a life or event in a life; and, it has to provide two-way communications. There is more, and I’m skipping a lot to keep this a reasonable length, but one final thing is that it has to be able to be venerated by people.

When you go into any number of Greek or Eastern Orthodox churches, you will find saints at ground/eye level, often grouped together by various criteria. The idea is that those icons not only tell the story of the saint(s) in question, but are where the laity can access them. Above them you often find religious art (not icons) depicting the life of Christ. Above that you may have one (or more, Russian Orthodox churches often have five levels I’m told) levels depicting individuals, events, etc. None of the higher levels are considered icons as no one can reach them to venerate them.

A quick aside in regards a lot of the artwork and illustrations seen in traditional churches. As I mentioned above, the early Church was based on an oral tradition not a literary one as few were literate. Instead, the laity and what became the clergy memorized scripture and the books of the Old Testament. The artwork was a memory prompt, as it immediately brought up the scripture associated with the event depicted. When someone wanted to know how many times or in how many places something was discussed, they didn’t have the internet and such. What they did have were people who had memorized content and could think about and then tell you the answer and provide you with the citations as they went.

Now, a couple of other things to share about icons. First up, they have to provide the whole picture as it were. One of the most famous icons, Christ Pantocrator, really threw me the first time I saw it as Christ has two different eyes in historically accurate versions. One eye reflects his divine nature while the other reflects his human nature (two natures separate but united). For those interested, a little tidbit from the recent class. That icon was originally on the walls at a gate into Constantinople and was copied onto the ceiling of a monastery in the Holy Lands. After Constantinople fell, the one in the monastery was copied and spread as the original was lost.

You are going to find a lot of things like that in icons, particularly Byzantine icons. It has to represent the whole, not a snapshot of one brief moment in time. How that was accomplished varied, and for those interested it grew out of the synthesis of Semitic and Hellenistic art in iconography and religious art. Hellenistic artwork tended to be heavily realistic and striving for beauty, while the Semitic was focused less on beauty and more on message. Those “models” if you will, and the synthesis of same, defined much of the iconography and religious art of the early Church.

One other thing you are likely to notice is that perspective is off. Part of that comes from trying to depict the whole rather than a moment; and, part comes from the fact that it is not your viewpoint that drives things, but God’s. The perspective is different because it puts you into the icon as a participant and not a viewer. The world isn’t centered and doesn’t revolve around you, you are a part of the events not separate from them.

Another neat little fact is that indoor scenes always show as outdoor or without a roof/ceiling/etc. This is because nothing is hidden from God. Roof, tent, etc., God sees you as if they are not there. So, they are not present in the icon. Also, the gold background on classical Byzantine icons is intended to represent infinity. It is only in later Byzantine iconography that dark or shaded backgrounds came about, possibly reflecting the darkness as the empire fell.

Now, for the above two paragraphs, you can see what I’m talking about in Byzantine icons of the Annunciation. Though inside, no roof. Perspective on most puts you in the picture and not as a viewer of it. It’s not one brief moment shown; rather, the complete story is depicted using a variety of techniques.

By the way, neither icons or religious art are supposed to depict the Father as a bearded old man, or the Holy Spirit as a dove and the Lord as a lamb. On the former, based on all the Greek Orthodox churches I went into, that has to be the most cheerfully violated bit of canon law out there. On the latter, I can’t count how often that pops up in Protestant art in particular.

There is a lot more that I could say, and I’ve probably not done the best job on what I have said. All errors are mine and mine alone. But, it is a start and hopefully there is fuller discussion of individual points to come. There have literally been books written on these subjects: just the difference in how Orthodoxy depicts the Crucifixion versus the Roman Catholic Church is easily a few thousand words.

Hopefully, however, this gives you a start on understanding icons and iconography. I want to emphasize that per more than one ecumenical council they are not idolatry (and I haven’t yet touched the paganism behind iconoclasm). Rather, they are windows and appeals into heaven which, even unto this day, bring about miracles. There is hopefully a lot more to come on this topic.

If you would like to help me with this trip, seminary courses, and more, feel free to hit the fundraiser at A New Life on GiveSendGo, use the options in the Tip Jar in the upper right, or drop me a line to discuss other methods. I’ve added Cash App ($CliffPow7) and Venmo (@Clifford-Powers-5). There is also the Amazon Wish List in the Bard’s Jar. Getting hit by lightning is not fun! It is thanks to your gifts and prayers that I am still going. Thank you.

Pilgrimage: St. Gregory Palamas

Back in this post, I mentioned getting to meet St. Gregory Palamas and alluded to a story behind wanting to meet him. Thought today would be a good time to do so, and to set the stage for a long-promised discussion on icons, specifically Byzantine icons, and the difference between such and religious art.

This image of St. Gregory Palamas (borrowed from the OCA website) is fairly typical of those I saw in Thessaloniki. Almost all depict him in a similar manner, with a reddish-brown beard and a fairly full head of hair. For the record, I figure the locals (as it were) might know a bit more about what he looked like in real life.

I want to note, however, that icons are not intended to be snapshots. Indeed, the purpose of an icon is to present the whole story and not just a snapshot of one part of it. Hence he is shown as a doctor of the Church but with elements that are intended to show the entire picture of monk-theologian-archbishop. The eyes here are intended to show intelligence, while many of the others I saw tended to show more thoughtfulness.

Which is a bit different from the icon of him in my church back in Indianapolis. The image there shows him with a somewhat longer face, black hair, and if I remember correctly not a full head of hair. Or as bushy a beard. The eyes of that icon are also very different. To put it bluntly, if you are anywhere other than directly in front of him (and sometimes even then) it looks like he’s giving you the side-eye. A very judgemental side-eye. Particularly as you venerate another saint nearby.

A friend of mine and I have talked and laughed about it, but I admit it is a little unsettling as one of the points/criteria for something to be an icon is that there is two-way communication. It is not just a painted piece of wood, but something where communication can and does flow both ways. Which makes the apparent side-eye a bit uncomfortable.

Now, my solution was to start talking to him. Note, yet again, we do not pray to the saints; rather, we talk to them and ask them to pray and intercede for us since they are the only people we know are truly in heaven. In my case, I started with just a simple request to pray and intercede for me. Then I started taking the recent theology course and asked for his guidance, prayers, and intercession with it and any other course I took, and with conveying accurately and properly what I learned to others. I pointed out that I was never going to be the theologian he was, which means I need all the help I can get with the courses and with sharing. As plans for the pilgrimage progressed, I also asked him (among others) to pray and intercede so I got the most out of it.

When plans not only came together, but I knew I was going to get the chance to visit Thessaloniki for a couple of days, I resolved to visit where he was interred and to venerate his relics if possible. He was one of two saints who I feel stepped up (unexpectedly in my view) and helped ensure that I truly did get the most out of this pilgrimage, and I wanted to say thank you in person as it were.

So, when I got to Thessaloniki and I knew I had about six hours to explore, his church was the first one I visited. Yes, I did thank him and have asked him to keep guiding me on matters theological, with courses, and with sharing what I’ve learned with others.

If you want to know a bit more about him, this is a good place to start. Personally, I think there is more to him than just hesychasm though it is a large part of his story. His teachings are a fundamental part of current Orthodox beliefs and teachings, and I will note that he served as Archbishop of Thessaloniki for roughly nine years. I’m glad I got to meet him, and wanted to share a bit of the story behind that with you.

If you would like to help me with this trip, seminary courses, and more, feel free to hit the fundraiser at A New Life on GiveSendGo, use the options in the Tip Jar in the upper right, or drop me a line to discuss other methods. I’ve added Cash App ($CliffPow7) and Venmo (@Clifford-Powers-5). There is also the Amazon Wish List in the Bard’s Jar. Getting hit by lightning is not fun! It is thanks to your gifts and prayers that I am still going. Thank you.

Pilgrimage: Agia Sophia

No, not the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul, but the smaller one in Thessaloniki. The city is filled with churches, some of which are the oldest such outside of the Holy Lands. I’m going to cover the Hagia Sophia in another post, but it set the bar for basilicas around the world. This church, built on the ruins of a previous basilica, was the cathedral in Thessaloniki for many years.

The church is known for it’s mosaics and it is indeed well worth the view. It is also home to the holy relics of St. Basil the Confessor, and a recent addition: relics of Saints Sophia, Faith, Love, and Hope. Sadly, the photo I took of those relics appears not to have turned out (could have sworn it had). Over the last couple of years, these saints have turned up in my life. Their story is one I will share with you, in a somewhat abbreviated form.

Sophia was a Christian widow who was openly Christian in a time when it was illegal. Her daughters — Faith (12), Hope (10), and Love (9) — were also strongly and openly faithful. A (minor) official,quite possibly spurned by Sophia, denounced them to the Emperor so they would be taken to Rome and forced to recant their faith. This did not work out.

The emperor, Hadrian, first tried to get each daughter to renounce their faith and each, in a private meeting with the emperor, refused to do so. So did Sophia. Hadrian then ordered them to be tortured until they renounced their faith, and in a twist of cruelty ordered that the young girls be tortured and Sophia forced to watch. The idea being that either one of the children would break, causing the others to do so as well; or, that Sophia would break and renounce her faith in order to save her daughters.

The tortures were standard for the time and rather hideous, and I will skip over them here. If you don’t know about wheels, grates, and the like, do yourself a favor and don’t look them up. What matters is that when it became clear that none of them would renounce Christ, the girls were beheaded and are reported to have willingly offered their necks to the sword. As a final act of cruelty, Hadrian purportedly let Sophia have the bodies and take them from the city. She did so, and buried them on a hillside away from Rome. She then sat down by the graves until she too passed three days later. Other Christians buried her beside her daughters, and in the 700s the remains were transferred to a church.

I’ve had the thought that I would like to visit the church where the relics reside, but apparently portions of them were shared with the Agia Sophia. It was a moving moment for me as while I don’t understand their connection with me, I am glad that I did get this opportunity to venerate them.

If you would like to help me with this trip, seminary courses, and more, feel free to hit the fundraiser at A New Life on GiveSendGo, use the options in the Tip Jar in the upper right, or drop me a line to discuss other methods. I’ve added Cash App ($CliffPow7) and Venmo (@Clifford-Powers-5). There is also the Amazon Wish List in the Bard’s Jar. Getting hit by lightning is not fun! It is thanks to your gifts and prayers that I am still going. Thank you.

Maybe Later

Sorry, not feeling great today, decided to take the day off for all intents and purposes. Didn’t help that on top of not feeling good I couldn’t remember if I had taken the water pill or not, so may have taken two. Hit the tip jar, may have to pay for a new toilet as I think I may have cut a hole in it. (smile). More soon I hope.

Pilgrimage: In The Footsteps Of Paul

Thessaloniki is an ancient city. Founded in 315 BC, it has been a center of trade, learning, and more over the centuries. Looking at modern, crowded Thessaloniki, it can be hard to grasp how old it is, even with elements of that age staring you in the face at the oddest times. Ancient walls still stand and Roman baths have outlasted many other structures.

One of the subway entrances has this interesting timeline that also shows the depth where you find different ruins. In fact, the subway was years in the making because they were almost continually hitting archaeological sites that had to be surveyed, removed, etc.

It was also the site of early Christian evangelism, with the Apostle Paul spending time there preaching, and he later wrote two epistles to the church there (1 & 2 Thessalonians). The church there was important in spreading early Christianity to the world, and had a role in the ultimate legalization of Christianity. Some would rate Thessaloniki as the second most important city of what became the Byzantine empire, and it also filled a similar role for the early church.

The picture at the very top is of a small room, now chapel, surrounded by a newer (relatively) and larger church. It is widely believed that this room was in fact one of the earliest churches in Thessaloniki if not the first. It is also believed that it was here that Paul preached and/or talked with small groups of faithful and those interested in Christianity. Many of the decorations you see are ancient, but came later. Originally it was probably quite plain. Most early church services were in people’s homes, with altar cloths and other items being removed afterwards to help protect people. A common type of early church was a house-church, where the church was a house converted into a church, again so it didn’t stand out for the Romans and others to notice.

It is a bit awe-inspiring, and humbling, to stand where he stood. Where he preached knowing that doing so marked him for death — and doing it anyway. And, yes, Paul did preach or discuss in the open. More on that in another post, as this was not my only brush with Paul on this trip.

If you would like to help me with this trip, seminary courses, and more, feel free to hit the fundraiser at A New Life on GiveSendGo, use the options in the Tip Jar in the upper right, or drop me a line to discuss other methods. I’ve added Cash App ($CliffPow7) and Venmo (@Clifford-Powers-5). There is also the Amazon Wish List in the Bard’s Jar. Getting hit by lightning is not fun! It is thanks to your gifts and prayers that I am still going. Thank you.

Pilgrimage: Bus Travel

I’m going to caveat this by saying that I have no clue about Western Europe, but here in the East (and particularly the Balkans) bus travel is a world away from the American experience. Thank goodness!

In the U.S., bus travel has become a thing for not the lower class, but the underclass. Illegal aliens appear to be making high use of busses, while those who can’t drive or fly because of legal issues (much less cost) join them. Seating and rules are not enforced (at least on the hound) and altercations appear to be the norm based on my experiences last year. Again, the employees of the hound presume everyone on the bus is underclass and it is rare and nice to find one that is polite, helpful, etc.

Here, my experience with long-distance bus travel is pretty much the exact opposite. On both long-hauls there were retired couples just out traveling, a number of apparently middle-class people out and about, and a smattering of younger people. I will note that in both border crossings, it was a younger passenger that apparently had some questions asked of them and were checked out before being allowed to proceed. About a 20 minute delay both ways for them to make inquiries and such.

With one exception (who got a word from the driver) everyone was polite and well behaved. There was none of the drama you get on the hound. The exception was an older lady who was VERY in charge of her apparent husband and special-needs son who joined the bus at one of the last stops before the border, apparently no reservation, and tried to be a diva. A quick word from the driver had her in a seat and quiet almost instantly. Like I said, night and day difference.

Another huge difference was that the busses were comfortable and clean. The seats can recline, are well maintained, etc. You also can, for a small fee, ensure that the seat next to you is free — which came in handy given that my shoulders overlap standard seats a fair bit. The bus company I used (Flix Bus) has a number of low-cost optional extras that I made use of. Instead of about $15 each way, I paid app. $25 each way (four+ hour trip each way) and had a very comfortable and enjoyable experience.

Oh, and no government-mandated lectures or warnings, or general announcements at all. The only time one would have been needed was on the way back when the police closed the “interstate” and put traffic onto side roads — which came to a standstill. We sat there an hour, and the best guess of the two drivers (as I overheard them talking at one point) was that there had been an accident on a stretch that was just two lanes. With the exception of one person (possibly an American from voice, young) who complained once about the delay as she was on the way to the Sofia airport, nobody got excited or upset. The young American got told there was nothing that could be done, no alternate routes, and an implied sit down and shut up. She did.

While you can buy tickets at the local station (usually part of the central train station), I highly recommend buying online and in advance. Better prices, better English, more options, etc.

I do think that there is an international regulation requiring a certain number of bus drivers be characters. The first driver I had was such, and clearly was having fun with the tourists. He pretty much ordered me to de-ruck (think he actually may have used those words in Bulgarian) and relax when I first came up. He also double-checked my ticket (on the phone) and made sure I got on the right (his) bus and settled in. Even used some hand signals, and I have to admit I’m wondering if he wasn’t an NCO at some point. None of my gear was military and my hair is now very unreg, but…

One thing I will mention is that quite often the drivers either don’t speak English or may not admit they do. Learning some basics of the local language helps. That said, even if they don’t most of them will guide you and make sure you get on the right bus at the right time, etc. The person in the bus office most likely can speak some English (along with a bit of other languages) and can be help even if you bought online. For example, the nice young lady in the Thessaloniki bus office (a tour company that was also agent for several bus lines) told me where to go grab a last Greek coffee (and breakfast) and to come back and wait in the office as it was a little wet and nippy.

I’m headed up to the train station in a bit to see about getting to Troyan and a surprise trip if I can pull it off. Romania is not going to happen this trip, sadly; but, it should still be there when I get the chance to head back this way. If train service is on par with bus service so far, I will be a happy camper. If no trains available, I will not hesitate to take the bus again.

Again, can’t speak to Western Europe, but here I will not hesitate to take the bus. It was a far better experience than in the U.S., was efficient, and at a very good price. If you are coming to Bulgaria or the Balkans, do keep it in mind.

If you would like to help me with this trip, seminary courses, and more, feel free to hit the fundraiser at A New Life on GiveSendGo, use the options in the Tip Jar in the upper right, or drop me a line to discuss other methods. I’ve added Cash App ($CliffPow7) and Venmo (@Clifford-Powers-5). There is also the Amazon Wish List in the Bard’s Jar. Getting hit by lightning is not fun! It is thanks to your gifts and prayers that I am still going. Thank you.

Pilgrimage: Back In Sofia

I’ve got a lot to share with you. First, however, I need to rest up a bit and do laundry and I really wish that was the order of things. Sadly, laundry comes first even though I am of somewhat mixed emotions about washing the dirt/dust from various holy caves and such out of one particular pair of pants. I’ve also got to download the boatload of photos and such from the phone. Tomorrow, I will be spending the day with my friends at the German Monastery of St. John of Rila. Start looking for new content on Monday and don’t be surprised if things jump around a bit despite my desire to take things in order. More soon my friends!