Rechargeable Batteries?

can’t see what I’m typing, but wanted to ask what YOU think are the best rechargeable batteries systems on the market? Interested in AAA, AA, C, D, and 9 volt. Would love USB as well as plug in, so as to increase options in an emergency. Been less than impressed with energizer, and don’t trust Duracell that much these days, but want to know what you think and if I should change my mind on anything

Thoughts?

5 thoughts on “Rechargeable Batteries?”

  1. I don’t trust the chinesium stuff at all . . . and finding non-chinesium electronics can be a chore

  2. We keep a Jackery power unit plugged in for use in a power down situation. During Helene we used it to recharge our cell phones a number of times over 48 hours before power was restored. Its also useful on camping trips where I can run my CPAP machine all night. Or my HAM radio for a couple hours.

  3. If you have power during an emergency, rechargables are fine. There are many choices, but I’m not qualified to recommend any particular kind or brand. The real question, however, is whether you will have power during the emergency to recharge those batteries. Do you have a generator to use for recharging? Do you have enough fuel to keep that generator working for the duration of the emergency?

    Modern AA alkaline batteries have very good shelf lives, and there are some lithium batteries that have fantastic shelf lives (but they are not cheap). Personally, I would choose a mix… AA rechargables with a good supply of Alkaline AAs in case power is lost for charging . I would also include some sort of solar charger that could be used for a few of the rechargable batteries.

    Bottom line: Don’t rely on rechargable batteries during an emergency. They can be useful, but if you can’t recharge them, your are up a creek without a paddle.

  4. For “regular” batteries, I’ve had good luck with EBL now that Panasonic has thoroughly ruined the Eneloop brand. They also make 1.5V rechargeables for those gizmos that simply refuse to work properly with 1.2V batteries. Those tend to come with a special charger or a built-in USB port (micro or C).

    The next step up is power banks, and they’re all over the map. Also, I don’t know if it’s even possible to find one that wasn’t made (well, assembled) in China. Capacity tends to range from 10,000mAh to 50,000. Some also can jump a car. At that level, I’d start considering a 5W USB solar panel in order to have *some* power longer-term.

    The step above that is basically portable or semi-portable battery banks from companies like EcoFlow, Jackery, Bluetti, etc. These tend to be measured in Wh instead of Ah, and run from ~100Wh to 100lb 4kWh units that can be doubled or tripled with add-on batteries. These start in the hundreds, and run into the several thousands just to get started on the high end. If you’re throwing that kind of money at the problem, a few hundred watts of portable solar panels (the above all make them) and a set of solar extension cables (panels come with rather short cables) is pretty much mandatory.

    The final step is basically stacking the above units to make a larger system or using the type of batteries you find in solar installations. The latter is cheaper and you can generally find longer-lasting batteries (as in 7,000-10,000 cycles), but the former is easier because the charge controllers and inverters are built in. In both cases, it’s not strictly necessary to wire the batteries into your house: you can run extension cords as needed. It should go without saying that if you’re at this level, you should have a gas generator, too. Honda is the gold standard, but that’s also what they charge for one.

  5. Shelf life of Lithium-ion rechargeables (laptop batteries & similar chemistries) is limited once you charge them and use them; on the order of five years. For consumer electronic batteries (you said AA, AAA, C, D, 9V), the only rechargeables appear to be the NiMH chemistries. Again, your shelf life will be on the order of five years–but the Eneloop brand (made by Panasonic–formerly, all in Japan, but now, some are manufactured outside of Japan) have a 10+ year shelf life. Don’t get the Eneloop Pros if you want long (5+ year) shelf-life; get the regular Eneloops. For 9V, there are no Eneloop batteries–if you want to gamble, get another brand of NiMH. I’d just suggest getting a standard alkaline 9V. Quality control of Duracell & Eveready is worse than before, but if you keep them cool (or cold), they’ll last “in the fridge” for many years. I’ve had good experience with shelf-life on Rayovac C-sized alkaline cells, so maybe the 9V Rayovacs would also be good. If you’re disciplined, buy a stash of one-use 9V, and rotate by using them in your smoke/CO detectors and replenish the stash.

    My opinion.

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